Page 4
  Now I'm going to start constructing the fus parts and again, not by the accepted, conventional methods used by most. I borrowed a plug and some molds from Dick Lambert and started molding the sheets, man what a pain and it takes forever to dry. I'm going to try it using some molding techniques from my outdoor freeflight days when I flew alot of rubber and had to come up with the rolled tubes for the fus.
  I first start by preping one side 1/32" balsa with a coat of nitrate dope, allow to dry overnight and then attach light silkspan with thinner, allow to cure for a couple of hours then, one coat of nitrate on top of the silkspan and agian, allow to gas off for a couple of hours. Cut the balsa to do a quarter segment at a time. Now soak it in the usual ammonia hot water bath for about 10 mins. The top photo shows the balsa when it's removed from the bath, notice it's already bowing toward the silkspan side, it does that naturaly because the pores on the uncovered side are expanding and the silkspan covered side are not plus, the silkspan helps to keep it from ripping and splitting while it's getting wrapped aroung the plug.
  Now we are going to wrap the balsa around the plug with an Ace bandage, use a couple of pieces of tape to hold to balsa in position and then wrap it up. What's really nice about the Ace is that it form and hangs quite well especially around the end. Now put it into the hot box and wait, it'll dry out very quickly. about 3 hours at 150 degrees.
   I have attached some .008" braided flying line to the plug on the vertical c/l and hatch outline ( photo to the right shows the inside bottom right quarter ) this will mark the balsa forms on the inside and make it easier to trim.
  Once it's trimed I'll put it back on the plug and join the two halfs of the top with some CA, a strip of Scotch tape on the plug will keep you from glueing the skins onto the plug. Now sand the joined edges til your happy.
  Remove the shells, wax the plug, apply some double stick Scotch tape to the plug so just a small portion of the shell catches it, cut some 1.4 oz glass cloth and start glassing the outside of the shells and stick them in your hot box and in a couple of hours, it'll be done. Notice in the photos to the right, leave some glass overhang, this will make it easier to pull away from the tape once it has cured.
  The finshed shells weigh in at 16.5 gms. I wasn't too happy with the engine cowl, in a multi-curve surface and I had to piece three shells together to make it, just couldn't get it to form right. I will probably just curve a solid block and replace it. I'll also be reinforcing some areas inside with another layer of 1/32" balsa and glass, especially around the cowl so it will stand up to the abuse of pitting. I'll also put some formers in too.
  This method will require more finishing but, I feel it's takes alot less time to go from a plug to the finished shell by skipping the mold.
To the left is a pic of my new toy, that I plan to install into this project. Check out Dick Lambert's site for info on this engine.
  Above is the crutch, I opted for 3 layers of 3/16" basswood instead of popular, when machining the item to match the engine, the popular seemed prone to splintering versus the basswood. The crutch was 3D machined in a CNC to give exactly .040" clearance around the engine. The inserts are made from 10-32 screws, glued in with JB Weld and then the engine mounting holes are drilled and tapped to make sure it's perfect then, it's surface ground flat. Weight is 23 gm.
To Page 5 Putting it all together